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Corrective or camouflage make-up tends to highlight a person's best features to make a beautiful woman more beautiful. This type of makeup also minimizes a person's beauty flaws. Camouflage makeup style creates illusions. Highlighting, contouring and shadowing are the basic techniques to be followed. Working like an artist with concealer, foundation, powder, eye color, lip color as your tools would yield compliments from your mates.
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Modulate Face Shapes
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There are different shapes of the faces which sometimes need to be modulated in order to get the desired look.
If some one’s face is Round it has to be made look slender, which can achieved by applying darker foundation on the sides of the face. The shadowing of excess width creates the illusion of extra length.
Color should be selected carefully for a square shaped face because its sharp edges needs to be softened. Shading with upward strokes of blusher towards temples would reduce the squareness of bone structure.
Pear-shaped faces have a wide jaw and narrow forehead. To create width at the forehead and to slenderize the jaw shading is done on the sides of the chin, apply highlighter to the sides of forehead and application of blusher makes the cheek fuller.
Width must be added to Oblong or diamond face, so tip of the chin needs to be shadowed with lighter colors to reduce length. Highlighter creates fullness to the face when applied to the sides of the temples and similarly Blusher gives fullness to the cheeks.
Oval face is the perfect shape because it just needs shading and highlighting the cheekbones.
Heart shape face has wide forehead and a thin jaw line. To widen the jawline and reduce the forehead shading is done on the sides of the forehead and temples and jawline angle needs to be highlighted.
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Corrective makeup for nose
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Narrow Nose
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Apply concealer darker than skin color on the center of nose, and then cover the side of the nose with another concealer that is few shades lighter than the skin tone. Spread it with downward strokes towards nostrils to create width.
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Broad Nose
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Makeup will help you overcome your broad nose. Apply foundation darker than skin color to the sides of the nose. Start applying it from the inner corners of the eyebrows and head downwards to the nostrils and cover the bridge of the nose with a lighter shade of foundation.
Finish it off with applying transparent powder to the nose.
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Long Nose
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For large noses apply a foundation that is 1-2 shades darker than your skin tone to the tips between the nostrils. Cover the whole spot with foundation and concealer.
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Bumpy Nose
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Apply a not too dark foundation down the center line of the nose. Cover the bump with the dame colored foundation.
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Corrective makeup for Eyes
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Big, prominent eyes
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Use dark eye shadows and eyeliner around the eyes to make big eyes look smaller.
In daytime eye makeup, apply neutral eye shadow that is two tones darker then your skin tone on lid and crease as well. Blend. Line the lash line with black or dark brown eyeliner. Remember to apply mascara that only increases the volume not lengthen eyelashes.
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Small eyes
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The use of bright colors around the eyes and white or beige eyeliner on the waterline open up the eyes. But remember not to use dark eyeliner on the bottom lid. Apply eyeliner on the top lash line and extend it beyond the corners of the eye. Accentuate the shape of the eyes by applying neutral eye shadows with a hint of black. Curl the eyelashes and then apply mascara.
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Round Eyes
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Round eyes gives “too alert” feel. To make the eyes appear wider, contour areas inside and outside the eyes. Apply a thin stroke of medium shade eye make-up to the crease of the eyelid. Blend. Draw a thick line at the outer and inner corners of the eye by eyeliner to create an illusion of width.
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Narrow Eyes
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Narrow eyes appear larger and wide by the use of light shade of eye color on the upper lid extending it beyond the inner and outer corners. Apply a thin band of the light shade of color on the lower lid lash. Sometime white eyeliner on the inside of the lash lid is applied to give eye more open look. Apply light mascara.
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Wide-Set Eyes
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Application of dark eye shadow in the inner corner and lighter eye shadow to the outer two-thirds of the lid reduces the space between the eyes. Draw a thin line of eyeliner from inner to outer corners on both upper and lower lids. Groom eyebrows with Pencil, this will bring eyebrows a little closer to the nose. Don't extend eyebrows out at the corners. The mascara should be thick towards the centre of the eye.
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Close-Set Eyes
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Apply light shade from the inner corner to the middle of lid. Highlight the inner corner of the eye. Spread the medium-toned eye shadow to the outer corner of the eye from lashes to brow bone. Apply an intensive color eye shadow in the outer corner. Brush highlighter on the brow bone. Line both the eye lines with more focus in outer corners. Apply mascara thickened at the corners. Extend the length of brows out at the ends.
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Corrective makeup for Lips
Small Mouth with Small Lips
Shape the perfect lip by drawing the line outside the natural lip line. Fill in with primer and a dark shade lipstick. Highlight the upper lip to create a fuller impression.
Large Mouth with Full Lips
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Apply foundation to the mouth. Outline with a dark shade of lipstick just inside the natural lip line. Fill with light color lipstick within this outline. Avoid dark browns, plums, electric brights or pale shimmer shades. A matte lipstick will also lend a smaller appearance to your lips.
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Full Upper Lip
Apply foundation to the upper lip. Outline lip inside its natural lip line and apply a dark shade of lipstick. Then outline the lower lip just outside its natural contour and fill in with a light shade lipstick.
Full Lower Lip
Outline upper lip just outside its natural contour. Apply a light shade of lipstick with a hint of lip gloss in the center. Apply foundation to the lower lip. Outline inside the natural line and fill in with a darker shade of lipstick.
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Wide Mouth
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Apply foundation to the corners of the lips and carefully fill the lipstick ending some millimeters before the corners of the mouth.
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